No need to get too fancy with the marinade: this is a cut that really doesn’t need it. Our tip is to cook them in the oven first – finish on the outdoor grill if you must – but don’t deny yourself the joy just because you are cooking indoors. Enough for 2 racks of ribs – easily doubled or trebled.

2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp English mustard
1½ tsp smoked paprika
2 tbsp tomato ketchup
2½ tbsp dark brown sugar

Combine all the marinade ingredients, whisking them together well. Put the ribs in a large ovenproof dish, pour the marinade over them and use your hands or a brush to get them well coated. Cover and leave to marinate in a cool place for 4 hours, turning them from time to time.

Turn the ribs in their marinade, cover the dish with foil and bake in an oven preheated to 170°C for 45 minutes.

Raise the temperature to 190°C. Remove the foil and turn the ribs again, basting them with the sauce. Return the dish to the oven, uncovered, and cook for 35-45 minutes, turning and basting the ribs 2 or 3 more times, until they are glossy and dark and coated in the caramelised sauce.

Spoon any remaining sauce from the dish over the ribs. Leave until they are cool enough to pick up with your fingers, then tuck in.

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